Tuesday, November 27, 2012

Starting off on the right foot

There has been a lot of discussion about lure spin and line coiling recently and rightfully so.  Both are detrimental when coercing neutral fish into biting and should be taken seriously.  Manufacturers released numerous straight line and various other fly reels onto the ice fishing market to help solve some of the issues which cause lure spin due to line coiling.  But, does using a fly reel automatically eliminate lure spin?  Surprisingly, the answer is "No".  Below I have highlighted some additional steps that in conjunction with fly reels will also help greatly reduce line coiling and subsequently lure spin.  These same principles also apply to spinning gear and also help reduce line twist on these reels.

Fresh line 
I always like to put fresh fishing line on my ice fishing reels around this time of year.  Generally a week before first ice works best as spooling the reels too soon increases the chance that your fishing line will develop some memory.  This especially holds true for monofilament and fluorocarbon lines.  Generally braided lines like Fireline or Power Pro don't acquire line memory and aren't required to be switched every season.

Putting line on properly 
The second step is often one over looked and it shouldn't be.  How many times have you opened the bail on your spinning reel to have the line jump off the spool?  That should tell you the line was improperly put on the reel and can be a real issue during future use.

The process I started doing a couple of years ago is simple and works great if you are spooling your reels independently.  First, fill a clean five gallon bucket about halfway with hot water.  Take your spool of fishing line and let it soak in the bucket for a few minutes; it softens the line and makes it more manageable to work with.  Feed the line through each of the eyelets of the rod your reel is attached to and tie the line to your reel.  Apply some tension to the line when spooling the reel by using your index finger and thumb on the hand holding the reel.  If you're spooling a fly reel which doesn't have a line guide, you can manipulate the line evenly on the spool with the same index finger and thumb.

The reason for using the bucket of water is that the spool will right itself in the water to allow for the line to come off in the correct direction. Similarly, the viscosity of the water allows for the proper amount of drag on the spool when you are retrieving the line.

Stretching the line
After the line has been put on the spool, I like to tie the free end off on a secure point on one side of the house. Then I walk to the other side of the house while releasing line from the spool.  Reel up the slack so that the line is tight and then slowly walk back to where the line is tied up while retrieving the line under tension.

Conditioning the line
This last step not a lot of anglers follow, but it really does a nice job with keeping the line supple and memory free.  Once the line is back on the spool, I like to apply a liberal amount of line conditioner like Reel Magic to the line.  There are other brands of line conditioner available, but I've always used Reel Magic and it has worked for me.  Another bonus about line conditioners is that they have hydrophobic properties, which helps them prevent water accumulation on your line.  This is especially beneficial for those who used braided lines or use a braided backing on their fly reels.  You can apply a line conditioner before each trip if you desire; a bottle will last you a long time.

Be sure to try out these suggestions this winter as they will certainly help you manage your line better and limit the amount of coiling which can occur on your lines.

Thursday, November 8, 2012

Product Spotlight: Tungsten Handmade Flies

With the advent of fishing heavier, more ecologically friendly jigs, such as those made of tungsten, have revolutionized how some anglers fish.  Tungsten is roughly 1.7 times more dense than lead; this means that you are able to fish a smaller sized offering without sacrificing weight.  Tungsten lures also give you more control of your presentation and allow you to fish deeper water without having to increase the size of your lure.  The only drawback of tungsten jigs is that they are quite a bit more expensive than lead jigs.

Tungsten lures are not a secret and ice fishermen on the pro circuit have been fishing them for a long time.  The initial idea originated in Eastern Europe and Russia from ice fishermen who have long used them.  Many companies such has Fiskas, Sportsmen's Direct, Northland Tackle, Skandia, Bentley, and others capitalized on the concept and helped bring these tungsten lures stateside and make them available on a retail level.

The melding of the heavy weight tungsten lure and traditional flies is not a new concept, rather one which has not been marketed and explored to a great degree.  Barry Williams saw a need for the addition of tungsten and flies so he started handcrafting his own lures at home.  If Williams seems familiar to you, it may be from the recent article Roadkill Panfish in the 2013 In-Fishermen Ice Guide, which featured some of his work.

Williams uses a multitude of tying materials such as marabou, squirrel, deer, rabbit, opossum, and beaver.  Williams notes that each gives a separate and distinct action to the bait.  Some of his favorites for panfish include the Spooky Bushwacker, Roadkill, and Freshwater Shrimp.  The sky is the limit for color and material combinations, as well as sizes ranging from 4mm down to 2.5mm.  His tungsten flies are attractively priced at a dollar a piece which makes them an affordable option for guys wanting to try a tungsten jig but don't want to spend upwards of four dollars on a jig.

Barry did a fantastic job and was very prompt on getting my order completed and shipped.  I was pleased with how well the flies turned out and I really look forward to using these this winter when targeting pressured bluegills and crappies.  While the flies aren't quite as heavy as a same sized counterpart tungsten jigs, they are much heavier then a traditional beaded fly.  I look for these flies to do really well in shallow to moderate depths or as part of a dropper rig when fishing moderate to deeper water.

If you are interested in trying out some tungsten flies this winter, you can find more information about Williams and his offerings at http://spookyspiders.bravehost.com/.

Size comparison: 4mm tungsten jig (left) and 4mm Roadkill fly (right)